March 22, 2012 § Leave a comment
According to the dictionary…
“Solipsism is the philosophical idea that only one’s own mind is sure to exist. The term comes from Latin solus (alone) and ipse (self). Solipsism as an epistemological position holds that Knowledgeof anything outside one’s own mind is unsure. The external world and other minds cannot be known, and might not exist outside the mind. As a metaphysical position, solipsism goes further to the conclusion that the world and other minds do not exist. As such it is the only epistemological position that, by its own postulate, is both irrefutable and yet indefensible in the same manner. Although the number of individuals sincerely espousing solipsism has been small, it is not uncommon for one philosopher to accuse another’s arguments of entailing solipsism as an unwanted consequence, in a kind of reductio ad absurdum.”
All I know is that it’s a theory that contradicts it’s self (something I have in common with it) and that director Andrew Thomas Huang has managed to create something really amazing…
March 22, 2012 § Leave a comment
Dion Lee follows up his first ever presentation outside of the Sydney Opera house as part of this years London Fashion Week with this film “Sequence Breathing” which was premiered on Dazed Digital, and directed by Lorin Askill. The film allowed Lee to show the more conceptual “undiluted” concept behind the collection in a way that was not possible in the presentation.
Anyway, here’s the film, the use of lighting to give the garments made from strands of draped High Vis fibre is the highlight (get it!) of the film. Apart from the clothes which are pretty damn cool. Only downside is they didn’t use the entire collection which is a bit sad.
March 21, 2012 § Leave a comment
Social and cultural phenomenon regarding taste or aesthetics have long been closely associated with with social relations and dynamics between people. The idea of social tastes is therefore impossible to separate from the accompanying sociological concepts, such as morals, beliefs, and aesthetic values, that form an integral part of any social construct. Being able to define taste, whether good or bad, makes it possible to to see and understand aspects of human society that would otherwise be incomprehensible.
Some judgments concerning taste may appear more legitimate than others, but most often there is not a single conception shared by all members of society. People with individual sensibilities are not unique either. For instance, aesthetic preferences and attendance to various cultural events are associated with education and social origin. Different socioeconomic groups are likely to have different tastes, and it has been suggested that social class is one of the prominent factors structuring taste.
But in a world where the instantaneous nature of a society, especially one with access to a resource like the internet, the rapid evolution of how people interact has rendered the social landscape amorphous, no longer definable, the question of taste and aesthetic has become a confusing one. If so many individuals can have friendship circles that dismiss all traditional notions of relation, and are able to express their own thoughts, tastes, and ideas and broadcast them we can no longer consider our social environment to be based on our immediate physical surrounds. Society is no longer based on where you are, but rather what you are looking at.
Stephen Jones “Veiled Beanie” for Jil Sander
Which means that the traditional dichotomy of good and bad taste no longer has any distinction. If anything there seems to be an emerging sense of unity between the two. Like two sides of a coin, with the emergence of an aesthetic trend where both are used in equal measure to create a paradox between conflicting ideas.
Take for example the veiled beanie by Stephen Jones Raf Simons showed in his Jil Sander Summer 2012 collection. A sudden merging of what is traditionally associated with the street, young men, and rebellious youth, with what is associated more with tradition, ceremony, and ritual. Or the shoes Prada (always a purveyor of bad taste at its most tasteful) showed with their Summer 2010 collection. Lucite stripper shoes with crystal chandelier components hanging from the heel and straps. Very trash meets treasure.
Prada Shoe Summer 2010
Of course ‘taste’ is prevalent through all aspects of the creative industries. The art world was perhaps one of the first to start toying with ideas of questionable materials or subject matter. Andy Warhol was maybe the first to toy with the idea, after all if seeing a screen print painting of soup cans hanging in some foyer on the Upper East side isn’t a juxtaposition of taste then I don’t know what is. And let’s not forget Dash Snow and Dan Colen’s “Hamster Nests” of shredded telephone books installed in hotel rooms across the world. Heaps of paper with a generous dash of piss, liquor, and other bodily fluids are a clever riff on the idea of homelessness, yet in the environs of somewhere as bourgeois as a hotel room or art gallery it takes on a different meaning.
It could be argued that this combination of elements previously considered unfashionable or unappealing with those that we associate with archetypal ideas of glamour is merely the next logical step, especially considering there isn’t much left in the way of originality. And this is probably quite true, but if so it surely stemmed from what was already happening both on the street and on the web. If anything perhaps this merging of different idea’s of what constitutes “aesthetically pleasing” could signal the start of a more global culture.
Dash Snow + Dan Colen “Hamster Nest”
March 20, 2012 § Leave a comment
I needn’t bother introducing he famed Central Saint Martins college in London, as its long history of ignoring convention, subverting design, and generally churning out some of the future big names of design with alarming regularity has made it a household name.
Well at least in my house.
Fresh off the catwalk, and instead of using the images from said runway, Amy Gatkwin and Dazed&Confused’s Nell Kalonji picked their top eight for an exclusive shoot with DAZED DIGITAL.
(Who I pinched the pictures from. Hopefully they don’t mind…)
The lucky 8 include Craig Green, Estefania Cortes Harker, Kenji Kawasumi, Malene List Thomsen, Timur Kim, Yifang Wan, Yong Kyun Shin and Yulia Kondranina.
March 19, 2012 § Leave a comment
March 15, 2012 § Leave a comment
The other day a friend (I won’t shame them) referred to Snooki as a pop culture icon…
If such a person could possibly be put into that category, she most likely also sits somewhere between The Hills and Robert Pattinson’s hair on the List of Things That People Shouldn’t Care About.
If organised religion is the biggest threat facing the development of human society, then Reality TV is fast becoming the biggest threat to the evolution of human culture. Today while doing a morning browse I discovered that those ‘clever’ (and I mean clever, they did after all manage to brainwash pretty much the whole damn world) television exec’s have released yet another reality TV show titled “Fashion Star”.
Out of pure curiosity I watched the pilot episode. 15 minutes in (and probably a few million brain cells lighter) I realised I’d actually chanced upon something even more destructive to my particular industry than the show it attempts to emulate (Project Runway), and if it was even possible, even more stupid.
They must have offered Elle Macpherson a small country to get her as host.
For years there has been a steadily growing opinion that reality television is dumbing down society. And I have to agree, from Jersey Shore to Masterchef, this breed of easy programming has spread into humanities cultural psyche like some particularly noxious STI. They portray a dark future for not just the creative arts, but society in its entirety. How and when did such incredibly stupid people become such regular fodder for viewers? I am guilty of indulging in the occasional moment of the Rachel Zoe Project (‘Having a moment’ has recently popped up in my vocabulary like a case of verbal herpes) and even Project Runway, if only to massage my own ego. But I am increasingly disturbed by the number of these shows appearing each season.
Who cares about those sad people who live in squalor because they can’t throw away a single thing? Yes its great that the show helps them get over their hoarding, but do they really need to project it across the world? And don’t even get me started on the Kardashians. They only function they serve is as a celebrity buffer. Let’s face it, with Kim, Kourtney, and Khloe around the real celebrities are safe from ever appearing on a tabloid cover ever again.
This is what your kids are going to turn into…
But apart from the cultural wasteland that these shows have turned the entire realm of television into, and the fact that I’m I find myself increasingly concerned by the risk that these shows pose to some of the industry’s they dabble in. The Music, Fashion, Interior Design, and whatever other profession the networks have goo ten their claws into, have enough problems without being completely devalued and diluted by not just the shows themselves but the contestants they then give a whole lot of money to and send off into the world.
Tell me Christian Siriano (the winner of the fourth season of Project Runway, and probably the most talented so far) has done one thing with any real value or dialogue on Fashion and I promise to never rag on the show again. But he hasn’t, and he probably won’t because as far as I could tell from however many episodes of the show I watched, he, like all the other contestants, has no understanding of what fashion is beyond some misguided preconception of glamour and magazines and parties. Frankly young designers have enough competition coming into the industry without some talentless fool being given thousands of dollars to churn out endless silk satin cocktail dresses. I still remember an episode where not a single contestant knew how to draft a basic pair of pants, something a first year uni student has no trouble mastering.
And I fail to understand how some of the top chef’s in Australia can take part in Masterchef, a ‘phenomenon’ based on the idea that in twelve weeks you can go from being someone who cooks at home for fun, to working in and opening your own restaurant. Because of cause, we all know chef’s don’t train and work themselves into the ground under despotic bosses to reach the pinnacle of their industry. Secretly it’s just a twelve week short course and they’ve been fooling us all for decades.
I’m pretty sure Auguste Escoffier (if you don’t know him then google) is spinning somewhere subterranean.
I can quite easily imagine the whole art world in a furore when they bring back Art Attack. Hosted of course by some model/B-grade actress looking to cash in on whats left of their career, and featuring twelve contestants all carefully casted to maximise the on-screen drama.
The crux of it is, apart from the imminent threat it poses to pretty much every aspect of human culture is the scary fact that there is an entire generation growing up on a diet of this, and worse, possibly thinking that the behaviour exhibited on such shows is normal. When you look at your children one day and wonder how sweet little Susie went from playing fairies in the garden to a Twittering, self obsessed, sociopathic Oompah-Loompah with a coke addiction, or how Johnny ended up with balls the size of peanuts from steroid abuse, switch on your TV and you’ll get your answer.
March 14, 2012 § Leave a comment
I might be a bit late on the rapturous-gushing-holy-shit-praising of this cover for DAZED&CONFUSED featuring Grimes, but better late than never right?
For anyone who lives under a rock or in a cave (or like me is just plain music un-savvy) Grimes (a.k.a Claire Boucher) is the 23 year old musician taking a whole lot of different genres I won’t even try to name (but according to the DAZED feature include, new jack swing, k-pop, industrial and glitch) to birth a sound that is at once psychedelic, dreamy and surprisingly upbeat.
It’s damn cool, shot by Hedi Slimane (new creative director of YSL) wearing Givenchy Couture.
Almost makes me want a septum piercing…